What are men wearing now?
I realized that my wardrobe hadn’t changed much in the past 20 years. I’m very happy to be an adult and don’t want to dress like a teenager, but as the rules around male dress code disappear, it’s hard to know how to update and improve my wardrobe. Can you please offer some advice? —Paul, Pittsburgh
Since there’s nothing quite like going straight to the source for an answer, and since Guy Trebay, our menswear reviewer, is currently on the front line (or front row) of this issue when menswear shows, I asked him how he would translate the latest designer moves for the everyday menswear. Here is the information it sent back from the theater of operations:
“A distinctly positive conclusion from the recent edition of Pitti Uomo, Florence’s premier menswear show, the Milan shows and those still going on in Paris, is the flexibility of options for men in all ages.
The broken suit – or the jacket worn with one of the many trouser options – is now universally preferred by designers. (We’re talking about conservative designers, not the ones offering furry pants or leather zip-up shorts.) A good formula seems to be to wear a tailored garment as an anchor, then indulge yourself. . That could mean a blazer or chore jacket or even an untucked shirt with square tails (think guayabera) over pants. These exist at all price points, from Brioni to Uniqlo.
As for the pants, despite Jerry Seinfeld’s insistence that no one over 30 has any interest in wearing jeans, they remain my favorite. The choices are plentiful, though a straight leg and dark indigo selvage denim is a classic (no jeggings, saggers or wackadoodle washes, please). Personally, I like the Los Angeles label Hiroshi Kato. Yes, they are expensive, but they wear like iron and go straight to the wash. (Cold only, please hang to dry.)
Forget the tie, but wear them with a decent jacket, a oxford pressed or even a crisp t-shirt and a good pair of shoes – which, believe it or not, are making a comeback. As I carry myself strollers almost exclusively, there is also a lot to be said for a pair of Closed Toe Birkenstocks.
You should feel comfortably well-dressed for most occasions other than your wedding or your day in court, but if you really want to break with personal tradition, take a cue from one of the best shows I’ve seen in ages. years and wear Issey Miyake head to toe.”
Answers to your style questions
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion question, which you can send her anytime via E-mail Where Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.